Immersed in the Amazon

June 16, 2021

Manati Lodge on the Rio Negro, Brazil. Pic (cc) Angelo Sciacca.
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Exper­i­en­tial tour­ism allows people to act­ively and mean­ing­fully engage with a place’s his­tory, people, cul­ture, food, and environment. 

I recently jour­neyed to the Brazili­an Amazon and exper­i­enced three days immersed in the envir­on­ment and cul­ture with the help of Wel­ling­ton, my inter­pret­ive guide. 

I hope this blog post inspires oth­ers to take sim­il­ar exper­i­en­tial jour­neys. I believe that not only are they more mem­or­able for trav­el­lers but they also encour­age the tour­ism sec­tor to be more sustainable.

Angelo Sciacca 300sq

The inside track

Angelo Sciacca is a sus­tain­able tour­ism con­sult­ant work­ing “at the cross­roads of sus­tain­ab­il­ity, tour­ism and com­munity devel­op­ment”. For his PhD at Edin­burgh Napi­er Uni­ver­sity, Angelo is focused on “the bar­ri­ers and ena­blers to a cir­cu­lar eco­nomy faced by tour­ism businesses”.

Manaus is the cap­it­al of Brazil’s Amazo­nas state and the gate­way to the Amazon River and rain­forest. Approach­ing by plane is an emo­tion­al exper­i­ence as you glimpse lush rain­forests, the start of the fam­ous river, and the Rio Negro. Upon arrival you notice as you leave the air­port the dens­ity and diversity of the forest that sur­rounds the city. 

Rio Negro from above before landing in Manaus. Pic (c) Angelo Sciacca.
Rio Negro from above before land­ing in Manaus. Pic © Angelo Sciacca.

Manaus has a strong, wel­com­ing char­ac­ter. Street food, chaot­ic neigh­bour­hoods, busy har­bour, and out­stand­ing archi­tec­ture make this one of my favour­ite cit­ies in Brazil. 

The high­light of Manaus is its sur­rounds: the Amazon Rain­forest, the Rio Negro, and the Amazon River. The encon­tro das águas, where the Rio Negro meets the Rio Solimões and where the Amazon River offi­cially starts, is a short boat ride from the city. The col­our of the two rivers is sig­ni­fic­antly dif­fer­ent. The Rio Negro’s dark waters are due to less sed­i­ment churned up by its slower flow.

Encontro das águas. The start of the Amazon River, Brazil. Pic (c) Angelo Sciacca.
Encon­tro das águas. The start of the Amazon River, Brazil. Pic © Angelo Sciacca.

Although day tours give you a taste of the beauty of the Amazon, for an unfor­get­table exper­i­ence you should head to one of the forest lodges in the Rio Negro. I stayed at the Manati Lodge. Here you can fully exper­i­ence the rain­forest, the river, and the cul­ture of the com­munit­ies liv­ing on its banks. The lodges here are mostly only access­ible by boat, and the trip is an exper­i­ence in its own right. 

Dur­ing my three-day stay at Manati, I was accom­pan­ied by a loc­al guide, Wel­ling­ton, who was born and raised in a nearby vil­lage, or comunid­ade. An inspir­ing source of loc­al and tra­di­tion­al know­ledge, Wel­ling­ton has been work­ing as a tour guide since the early-mid 2010s and he def­in­itely knows how to make your stay mem­or­able. All of the activ­it­ies he organ­ised were highly exper­i­en­tial and gave me the oppor­tun­ity to be part of them. 

Tour guide Wellington with açaí. Pic (c) Angleo Sciacca.
Tour guide Wel­ling­ton with açaí. Pic © Angleo Sciacca.

Dur­ing our forest hike, for example, Wel­ling­ton applied an integ­rated inter­pret­a­tion approach. This means that not only did he guide us in how to find and observe wild­life respons­ibly, but he also shared some of his rich rep­er­toire of loc­al stor­ies and legends asso­ci­ated with much of the forest’s fauna and flora. Wel­ling­ton’s approach allowed me to appre­ci­ate more intensely my moments inside the rain­forest, while sim­ul­tan­eously pre­serving his cul­ture’s intan­gible heritage.

Urucu seeds Brazilian Amazon Manati Lodge Rio Negro 300sq
The seeds of the urucu pro­duce a bright red dye. Pic © Angelo Sciacca.

I learned about the past and cur­rent uses of some the forest’s nat­ur­al resources, such as the plants and trees used to pro­duce glue, nat­ur­al rem­ed­ies, and build­ing mater­i­als. I was invited to taste forest foods, such as the açaí and oth­er fruits and seeds, and to learn about some unusu­al tra­di­tion­al uses of some plants. The seeds of the urucu fruit, for example, pro­duce a beau­ti­ful bright red dye when squeezed. The indi­gen­ous peoples of the area use it for paint­ing and dec­or­at­ing their bod­ies, crafts, and tools. 

Anoth­er unex­pec­ted use of a plant is the one in the video below. The sound was tra­di­tion­ally used by hunters to attract birds.

Wel­ling­ton gen­er­ates a sound tra­di­tion­ally used by hunters to attract birds.

It was really fas­cin­at­ing for me, des­pite my sub­stan­tial travel exper­i­ence, to see the deep and respect­ful integ­ra­tion of the loc­al com­munit­ies with their sur­round­ing forest eco­sys­tem. Wel­ling­ton helps pre­serve much of this know­ledge while shar­ing it with vis­it­ors in a very inspir­ing way. His wild­life watch­ing activ­it­ies are mostly unplanned, impro­vised by Wel­ling­ton based on his forest skills and his know­ledge of the forest and its sea­sons. He would knew when and where would be a good occa­sion to spot sloths, mon­keys, many bird spe­cies, and caimans.

My jour­ney with Wel­ling­ton con­tin­ued with oth­er cul­tur­al exper­i­ences, such as tra­di­tion­al har­vest­ing and cook­ing meth­ods. I vis­ited a fam­ily that pro­duces cas­sava flour and par­ti­cip­ated in the entire pro­duc­tion pro­cess, from tak­ing the cas­sava root, grat­ing it with a tra­di­tion­al machine, remov­ing its juice, and fil­ter­ing the flour. We cooked the tapioca on a mud-made stove and topped the meal with forest-sourced Brazil nuts.

Filtering cassava flour and cooking tapioca with Brazil nuts fresh from the tree. Pics (c) Angelo Sciacca from the Brazilian Amazon based out of Manati Lodge on the Rio Negro.
Fil­ter­ing cas­sava flour and cook­ing tapioca with Brazil nuts fresh from the tree. Pics © Angelo Sciacca.

My three days at Manati Lodge were filled not only with nature- and cul­ture-based activ­it­ies but also lots of inter­est­ing stor­ies. Loc­al stor­ies are jour­neys through time; the fourth oft-for­got­ten dimen­sion of a place.

My jour­ney to the Brazili­an Amazon taught me much about exper­i­en­tial travel in prac­tice. Above all, it allowed me to appre­ci­ate once again the love and pride that drives com­munity guides to pre­serve their cul­ture and her­it­age for future gen­er­a­tions. In the Amazon they do so with an out­stand­ing respect for the nat­ur­al world.

I would recom­mend a jour­ney to the Amazon to any­one. How­ever, I would strongly recom­mend enga­ging a loc­al guide as pas­sion­ate and know­ledge­able as Wel­ling­ton. He helped make my exper­i­ence of this part of the world truly amazing.

Where is this?

Manati Lodge
Lago do Aca­jatuba, SN, Rur­al Zone,
Man­acap­uru – Amazo­nas, Brazil
Tel: +92 995 256 792 | E‑mail: reservas@manatilodge.com

Fea­tured image (top of post): Manati Lodge on the Rio Negro. Pic © Angelo Sciacca.

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